Bespoke


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A Punk Poet

Some not-so-new new tunes on the new turntable in Richard James Bespoke.

Our resident music maestro Kevin – yes, he of Medley’s Melodies and the man who puts the soundtracks together for our runway shows and collection presentations – has gone back to the ’70s and discovered the proto punk poet Patrik Fitzgerald, who, we are pleased to discover, is still performing.

A supplier of ours actually produced a fanzine called Anonymous Society at the time Fitzgerald first emerged and was sent a couple of these 7″ records by his label Small Wonder to review. And having spied our new turntable, he brought them in so we could give them a spin. Playing, top, is Trendy from the Backstreet Boys EP of 1978.

Look and listen out for more rare and esoteric vinyl at the Bespoke store soon.

Richard James Bespoke turntable

Richard James Bespoke turntable

Richard James Bespoke music

 

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Tailor Made

Here’s a closer look at the all-new Richard James Bespoke, which now occupies two beautifully fitted-out floors at 19 Clifford Street.

It’s all the work of our lighting, display and general interiors whizz Philip Oakley of, yes, that’s right, the No. 1 neon and other lighting designers and manufacturers Oakley Illuminations.

On the ground floor (top), one is immediately met by Philip’s stunning and reassuring neon likeness of Richard in familiar, patriarchal pose. And then, moving upstairs, we now have a customer lounge and bar (featuring a pair of nice re-upholstered ’60s-vintage French chairs) and a new fitting area, with one of Philip’s own mirrors.

The baroque-come-brutalist wall lights (fourth picture) are apparently Swedish and, again, were manufactured in the ’60s, and the spotlight (bottom) comes from Italy and first saw light (… ) in the early 70s. The picture, which is by Michael Boothby (contact Philip for details), and the greenery all come from closer to home in Hastings.

To celebrate the opening of the new Bespoke store, we have some special, once-only offers on our bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring until Monday 2nd October.

Richard James Bespoke

Richard James Bespoke

Richard James Bespoke

Richard James Bespoke

Richard James Bespoke

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Bigger And Better Bespoke

We hope to see you at the new, multi-storey and multifaceted Richard James Bespoke soon!

The once-off, celebratory bespoke and made-to-measure offer (right) is valid until Monday 2nd October.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor store

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New Chair Style

An original, very clean-lined Ernest Race BA3 dining chair in the changing room of the new, multi-storey and multi-faceted Richard James Bespoke store, which opens on Clifford Street on Monday.

The chair has been re-upholstered, chameleon-like, in the same slate grey herringbone wool that you can see on the the walls.

The new Richard James Bespoke store will be unveiled in its entirety on Monday.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

 

 

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Question Time

Somi Arian interviews our Head Cutter Ben Clarke in the Bespoke store for a film she is making for the Savile Row Bespoke Association about the craft of bespoke tailoring.

Somi’s considered, polished probing and calm demeanour are somewhat in contrast to her not-so-long-ago performances as the vocalist in the lively heavy metal band Mortad (bottom, right).

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailoring

 

Somi Arian at Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

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In The Picture

Our wall of covers and cuttings has moved to a new position on the first floor of the all-new, multifaceted and multi-storey Richard James Bespoke store, which will be opening on Monday 4th September.

That’s Nick Cave and Elton John in GQ, Liam Gallagher in Vogue, Jarvis Cocker in Elle, Pete Doherty in Esquire and Hugh Grant on the cover of Vanity Fair. And all of them in Richard James.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

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The Archive Rail

Our lighting, display and all-round interiors whizz Philip Oakley – yes, he of Philip Oakley Illuminations – is steering a smooth course towards an on-schedule early September opening for the new, very smartly refurbished multi-storey Richard James Bespoke store.

Here, in the first floor fitting room, is a glimpse of what we have taken to calling the archive rail, which is where we will be displaying some truly individual pieces of bespoke Savile Row tailoring.

On the left you can see two patchwork cashmere jackets that we made in 2013. To ensure that the jackets hang and drape perfectly, the cloths used were of the same 13oz weight and the patches were all the same size. Some thirty-five man hours goes into making a bespoke Richard James jacket, but each of these took about four times as long.

Two particularly exacting pieces of bespoke Savile Row tailoring.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

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Change Ahead

A fine and altogether suitable slate grey 16oz English-woven herringbone wool covers the walls of the first floor changing room in the new, soon-to-be-unveiled multi-storey Richard James Bespoke store on Clifford Street.

Another super job by our lighting, interiors and all-round display whizz Philip Oakley of, yes, that’s right, Philip Oakley Illuminations.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

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Button Up

Here’s our untypically casually attired head cutter Ben buttoning (adding the buttons to…) the five identical-in-all-but-size bespoke wedding suits that he’s been making for the groom and his wife to be’s four children, who are aged from ten to seventeen.

Pictured are the groom’s and, at the top, the very much smaller youngest child’s suit.

The suits, which are being collected today from Richard James Bespoke, are cut from a lightweight English-milled wool fresco cloth and will be worn with the classic Italian-milled silk satin ties (we won’t disclose the colour) that are made for us at one of the Pope’s chosen mills in Como.

Our very best wishes for the big day go to all.

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailoring

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailoring

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailoring

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Small Change

The smallest things can present the biggest challenges.

Indeed, of the five identical bespoke wedding suits we were recently asked to make for a groom and his children, aged between ten and seventeen, it was the smallest child’s suit that proved by far to be the largest task.

Pictured here (right) are said suits, which were cut from the same lightweight grey wool ‘fresco’ cloth, which is spot on for a summer wedding.

Cutting a bespoke suit for a child has been a new experience for our Head Cutter, Ben Clarke. Using a smaller length of cloth makes it harder to cut the pattern, because everything from the size of the pockets to the armholes is smaller and the proportions of a suit change when it is scaled down.

Children’s shoulder blades also protrude a little more than adults’, which also makes creating an accurate pattern tricky. “All the rules go out of the window,” says Ben. “And you have to change your system”.

Richard James Bespoke suit

Richard James Bespoke

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