Trousers


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Richard To The Rescue – Turn Ups

Our customer Michael Bradford catches Richard in the Savile Row store and presents him with a teaser about trousers:

“I’m keen on having turn-ups on my trousers. I’ve seen a few different heights on them. Some look like they’re almost 2 inches. The trousers I want are quite narrow and tapered. What do you recommend?”

Richard responds:

“Turn-ups, or cuffs as they are known in the United States, have seen a bit of a revival recently.

“Classically, the height of turn-ups is 1 1/2 inches, but people are now going up to 2 inches. Such a turn-up will work nicely on trousers like Oxford bags, for instance, with a high waist and a bigger, more balancing waistband. Generally speaking and for your purposes, however, I prefer a height of 1 3/4 inches, which is neither too big or too small.

“The other important thing to consider when you’re thinking about turn-ups is the length of your trousers. With a turn-up finish you can’t slant the hem of your trousers to make the back a little longer, so if you’re wearing narrower trousers with turn-ups, I suggest you wear them a touch shorter in length than you normally would. This will ensure that there is no heavy break to obscure and bunch your turn-ups.

“And do remember that one very good thing about turn-ups is that if you decide you don’t like them, you can very easily have them removed and a plain hem reinstated.

“So you’ve got nothing to lose by giving them a go, really.”

In a tizzy about your own trousers? Got a clobber query? Why not let Richard know about it and see if he can ride to your rescue?

Richard James Savile Row tailor trousers

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Snake Charmer

An immediately individual evening jacket awaits collection at Richard James Bespoke.

Cut from a light, 10oz blue snakeskin wool from Holland & Sherry that will shine (if not slither) under lights, this jacket was a full thirty-nine hours in the making. Evening jackets do take a little longer to make than everyday jackets, but this one was particularly tricky as the intricate pattern and very slight check in the fabric (which you might just be able to make out) had to be perfectly mirror imaged, or aligned, from the body through the sleeves.

And then there was the work that went into the invisible darts through the front and side body, which give the jacket its markedly clear shape and presence.

A plush finishing touch is given by the black silk satin, which features on the facing of the shawl collar (top picture), the turn back cuffs (middle), the jettings on the pockets (bottom) and the buttons (top and middle).

As we have said before, the client is never not encouraged to express himself (or herself, for that matter) at Richard James Bespoke.

Richard James Bespoke jacket

Richard James Bespoke jacket

 

Richard James Bespoke jacket

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Suitably Warm

Mr Neil Clifford, looking spruce in another, distinct Richard James Bespoke jacket.

This example is a little different in that it is cut from a wool overcoating cloth that weighs a hefty 28 ounces and is most certainly keeping Mr Clifford a lot warmer than the average jacket. It also features a button ‘under the turn’ (of the lapel) making it particularly snug in cold weather (see the picture, top right).

Over the years we’ve been fortunate to create a number of unique pieces for Mr Clifford and he recently approached us with a request for something to wear in place of an overcoat to this week’s Goodwood Members’ Meeting, which he says is “always freezing”. Our cutter Chris Foster-Hicklin was intrigued by the idea and set about making the jacket from said overcoating and a pair of matching moleskin trousers.

It is interesting to note the small arrow marks drawn onto the fabric (bottom picture) which indicate the direction that the cloth is to be cut and sewn. The marks serve as a guide for both the cutter and the tailor (who pieces the suit together), ensuring that the nap of the fabric is even throughout the garment.

A cloth of this weight holds its shape very well and ultimately provides a clean and flattering fit, but cutting it does present a bit of a challenge.

Richard James Savile Row Tailor

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row Tailor

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2017 Bespoke Offers

Never a better time…

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

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Camofleur

Three looks from our AW17 Camofleur collection, which we are revealing today.

See more of the collection and read about the buoyantly befuddling inspiration behind it here…

AW17 Camofleur will be in-store on Savile Row, at stockists and at Richard James Online in August .

Richard James AW17 Camofleur

Richard James AW17 Camofleur

Richard James AW17 Camofleur

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What to Wear and Where

Clignancourt market in Paris is commonly known as Les Puces (The Fleas), but to call it a flea market is to do it a disservice.

Seven hectares of curios and collectables and restaurants like the ever endearing Chez Louisette, it is an experience nonpareil.

Were you visiting soon and wondering what to wear, we’ve put together a light and layered weather-watchful look that we think will work very well for the occasion.

At the Savile Row store and Richard James Online now.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

Richard James tailor look for Clignancourt

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Trouser Problem

Sage advice from our customer Mr P. Oakley of Hastings: desist from wearing anything from the Richard James/SpongeBob SquarePants capsule collection of 2011 when visiting Iran.

Mr Oakley (pictured right wearing his own Richard James/SpongeBob shirt and tie) draws our attention to this week’s case of  the Iranian footballer Sosha Makani (pictured right, bottom) being suspended from plying his trade for six months for wearing a pair of yellow SpongeBob SquarePants trousers in public.

The ban was imposed by the Iranian football federation’s morality committee. “We took this decision because of his appearance and the impact it can have on the society,” an official was quoted as saying.

Richard James SpongeBob shirt

 

SpongeBob trousers

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Sarpe Shooting

Another eventful Richard James Online shoot with with Ani Sarpe at 33 Portland Place.

Richard James suit

Richard James suit

Richard James suit

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What to Wear & Where – Can Carlos in Formentera

The party season is getting underway in Ibiza – fun and frolics of the first order from now until October.

If you’re visiting and feel you need a breather, we recommend a visit to the charming restaurant Can Carlos on the much smaller and correspondingly quieter neighbouring island of Formentera.

And if you were wondering what to wear, we’ve put together a perfect, coolly Mediterranean look of a bright turquoise whipcord jacket, a blue parrot pocket square, a pristine white mercerised cotton polo, a very summery pair of teal big jungle leaves trousers and a pair of super-soft off-white deerskin sneakers. No socks.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

Can Carlos Formentera

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Bespoke Diary – Leg Up

Each leg is shaped separately to follow the customer’s natural contours before being joined together to make a wholly unique and perfectly tailored pair of trousers.

At work on a light wool ladies’ bespoke suit at Richard James Bespoke.

Richard James Savile Row tailor bespoke trousers

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