Article: Mango Tailored by Richard James

Mango Tailored by Richard James
Mango Tailored by Richard James is now available at major Mango stores throughout Europe (London, Paris and Barcelona amongst them) and, farther afield - or, perhaps, farther asea - in New York.
The collection (below) consists of three suits and three jackets and is designed to explore the future of contemporary tailoring, give the way that Mango is looked at within the tailoring sector a bit of a lift, and shine a light on the craftsmanship, artistry and know-how behind each piece.

For us, and our Creative Director Toby Lamb (below, with the collection's Burlington jacket), in particular, it was a fascinating project. “The starting point was understanding what really defines Richard James,” he says. “Not the clichés of Savile Row, but the principles behind it: precision, proportion and the belief that tailoring should always make the wearer feel more themselves, not more formal.”

When you bring together a global brand and a Savile Row tailor, albeit one with a reputation for modernity and colour, the trick is to find a meeting point. “The biggest challenge and opportunity was alignment of intent,” Toby explains. “British tailoring in general is historically quite self-contained while Mango is inherently international.”
The design process began with the silhouette. How a jacket sits on the shoulder, the line of a lapel, the relationship between structure and movement - these are the things that define tailoring. “We stripped things back to the essentials of cut and fit,” says Toby, “And then we introduced pattern, texture and subtle use of colour.”
Of course, translating Savile Row thinking into a collection that works on a global scale and across a range of climates and lifestyles came with some challenges. “It was also about scale,” Toby says. “Creating pieces that feel considered and premium but work in the real world across different cities.”
One piece that has been highlighted for doing just that is the Burlington jacket (below). It’s double-breasted yet relaxed, has patch pockets and is cut from a subtly textured check. Structured enough to give shape, but not rigid, it’s designed to move easily between different wardrobes. “It’s a jacket that works just as well with tailored trousers as it does with denim or knitwear,” Toby notes. “The Burlington isn’t so much about making a statement, it’s about giving the wearer a quiet confidence.”

And, of course, it all has to feel good too. “Structure and comfort aren’t opposites,” Toby explains. “True comfort comes from correct proportion. We focused on lighter internal structures, cleaner canvassing and fabrics the move naturally with the body. The jackets are shaped, but they’re not restrictive. The intention was always to create a collection that feels effortless rather than imposing.”
Detail was another consideration. “Modern men notice them, even if they don’t necessarily want them to shout,” Toby continues. “Lapel widths have been carefully judged to feel contemporary, pocket angles subtly elongate the line of the body, and the pistachio lining that runs through the collection adds personality, particularly when the jackets are worn open. We’re well known for our use of colour.”

And reaching a wider public hasn’t resulted in any compromise. “You have to respect the audience without underestimating it,” Toby says. “The approach remained much the same as it would for bespoke or ready-to-wear on Savile Row: every detail has to earn its place. If it doesn’t improve the fit, movement or overall feel, it simply doesn’t belong.”
Mango Tailored by Richard James says a lot about where tailoring is heading. It shows how Savile Row can thrive when it adapts and communicates beyond its own street. Opening the door to new audiences doesn’t mean you have to dilute the craft. “Savile Row doesn’t lose relevance by opening up, it gains from it,” Toby sums up. “We’ve shown that the principles of Savile Row tailoring translate remarkably well to a modern global wardrobe.”
You can see (and purchase) the Mango Tailored by Richard James collection in its entirety at mango.com. And the official campaign movie, A Closer Look and BTS videos are on our YouTube channel now.


